Goodyear welt construction

Most of our ready-to-wear collections utilize the Goodyear welting construction method which has several defining characteristics. A Goodyear-welted pair is heavier and less flexible, largely in part to the additional layers of material. The additional layers also act as a buffer, giving the shoes some water-resistant protection. When first worn, a Goodyear-welted pair can be uncomfortable because of the "rib" stitch on the insole, but they are among the sturdiest shoes, and are easy to resole. 

This has given rise to complaints of "stiff" and "uncomfortable"  shoes, but the discomfort usually only persists during the break-in period. Once well-worn, Goodyear-welted shoes can be among some of the most comfortable and most durable pairs. 


Blake stitch construction 

A small selection of our ready-to-wear collection are made using the Blake construction method, which allows the shoe to be lightweight, yet durable. Invented by Lyman Reed Blake in 1856, the stitches are on the inside of the sole. This allows the shoe to have greater flexibility than its Goodyear-welted counterpart. Blake welting is also superior for close-cut soles, making the overall design sleeker, and can be easily resoled.